It’s officially Fall and we’re all back in the kitchen. After a New York City visit to make new food friends and attend some Wine and Food Festival events, I’m roasting the Brussels sprouts from ripe stalks in my garden. Jill is doing beautiful things with beets and apples and Shelby is making some local squash sparkle in this gratin. And, inspired by the west coast fig harvest, Denise has shared a tart we’ve all fallen for… What are you doing with figs this Fall? -Maggie

Late August brings anticipation of fig season to our home.  I anticipate seeing the first basket of ripe figs make their market appearance, and I tend to seek them out anxiously the entire month.  This summer, I finally found these little gems towards the end of August and was completely overjoyed with glee.  I carefully hand-picked the plumpest ones I could find, and laid them carefully in a brown paper bag.  All the way home, I thought about how I was going to pour a glass of wine, sit out back, and savor the succulent flavor of each sweet  bite.  Unfortunately, this first time was a bit of a disappointment;  dry, seedy, and not very succulent.  A bowl of figs and not one was worthy of being eaten.

Over the next couple weeks, I reluctantly purchased a few figs here and there.  Once it started heating up around the Bay Area, the figs slowly started becoming plumper, moister and full of flavor.  Figs started becoming a regular guest over at our kitchen island, and we were enjoying them daily.  Most often we enjoyed them simply by nibbling on them as a snack or along side some cheese while making dinner.

If the figs lasted long enough to make it into a recipe, one of my favorites is this savory tart.  Creamy blue cheese cradles the sugary figs;  they are the perfect marriage and there really is no comparison.   As the blue cheese bubbles while baking, the figs gently burst and their jammy sweetness oozes over the tart.  This savory tart is lovely served as a starter for a special meal or on its own when served with a simple green salad.

Fig and Blue Cheese Tart

Ingredients:

• 1 package of puff pastry or enough tart dough for 8” tart pan
• 2 tablespoons butter, melted
• 4 ounces blue cheese
• 2 tablespoons half and half
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
• Enough figs to cover the bottom of your tart pan, cut them in half
• 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, minced
• Drizzle of olive oil
• Chestnut honey

Directions:

1. Heat oven to 375.
2. Butter the bottom and sides of your tart pan with the melted butter.  Roll out the dough into a large circle, about an inch bigger then your pan. Pat the dough into the pan and trim the extra dough that hangs over the sides.
3. Combine the cheese, half and half and pepper in a bowl. Mash with a fork.  Spread evenly over dough.  Arrange the figs over the cheese mixture alternating cut side up and cut side down. Sprinkle with the fresh minced thyme and drizzle olive oil over the top.
4. Bake for 15 – 20 minutes, until crust is golden, and the figs are plump and the cheese is slightly bubbly. Remove from oven. Let cool for 10 – 15 minutes. Just before serving drizzle a small amount of honey over the top of the tart.  Serve. Eat.

All photos styled and shot by Denise Woodward.

Eat Boutique is an online magazine + market for food enthusiasts to celebrate the best pure, local + comforting handmade foods. We call it: food that hugs you back. Looking for the perfect gift? Eat Boutique sells gift boxes filled with handmade sweet and savory treats. Order a gift box of food today.

The first time I was introduced to a live lobster, I was about 10 years old and was having a “fancy” dinner with my family at the Whaling Station in Monterey, California.  Our waiter brought my sisters and me, over to the lobster tank, and let each of us pick out our favorite.  Of course, I went for the biggest one.  Before showing the lobsters to their fate, our waiter brought Charlie, the loving name he gave my lobster, over to our table so we could properly meet. We giggled with glee. Moments later Charlie arrived on a platter with melted butter, and a few parsley sprigs as garnish. I remember taking the first fleshy piece of white meat, rolling it into the butter, and bringing it to my lips;  butter dripping down my chin, back onto the platter. Savoring that nugget in my chubby little cheeks, and letting it slide down my throat, smiling after every bite. I fell in love with Charlie at that moment.

I visit Boston at least once or twice a year with Lenny. You are probably assuming that I have had my fair share of lobster by now. Well, I did not get to experience my first lobster roll until last winter. I have had Neptune Oyster on my Boston to-do-list, but we never seem to have time to make a trip there. Last winter, I decided it was time, and if I had to go alone, I would go alone. One snowy afternoon, we bundled up, and headed into the North end, where we bellied up to a table, nestled between eager eaters from all the world.  We all had one thing in common, the love of good lobster.

Upon the suggestion of our waiter, we went with one hot and buttered lobster roll and one cold with mayo. It was like I was 10 years old again, sitting on the edge of my seat, smiling ear-to-ear, and eagerly waiting for the prized meal to arrive at our table. Moments later, two platters with carefully placed hot-dog buns, full of freshly caught lobster, crispy french fries and a few sprigs of parsley as garnish arrived. As I lifted the lobster roll to my parted lips, I could still smell the salty sea, and taste the hot, buttery bun melt into the creamy lobster mixture;  I suddenly felt that childhood memory wrap itself around me. Every bite took me back to that place when that 10-year-old girl fell in love with Charlie.

I cannot find lobster rolls on the West coast, so when I get that itch, I make them at home. There are a lot of recipes out there, with the addition of everything from pickles to cucumbers. I like to keep it simple, focused on the main star of the recipe. I have tweaked the recipe a bit, by adding fresh jalapenos, to add a spicy bite.  As well, I use homemade mayo. Don’t be intimated, the recipe is just as good with store bought  mayo. I like to use a live lobster, but have used frozen lobster tails, when I am in a pinch; both types are as equally delicious. This recipe is lighter than most recipes, which I think lets the creamy texture of the lobster really stand out.

Lobster Roll – cold with mayo

Ingredients

• 1 – 1-1/2 pound live lobster (a frozen tail works as well)
• 1 lemon, cut into quarters
• 1 tablespoon salt
• 1 jalapeno, seeds removed, minced
• 1 celery stalk, minced
• 3 green onions, minced
• 1/8 cup mayo
• 1/4 fresh lemon, juiced
• Salt for sprinkling
• 4 hot dog buns
• Butter

Fill a large stock pot with hot water, add the quartered lemon and bring to a boil over high heat.  Plunge the live lobster into the boiling water, cover with a lid, and lower the heat to a simmer.  Simmer until bright red, 15 minutes.  Remove from the heat, and immediately plunge into a sink full of very cold water.  Let set for 2 minutes.  Remove from the cold water, set in a colander, and let drain 30 minutes. While the lobster is cooking and cooling, prepare the rest of your ingredients. Once the lobster has drained remove the shell, and chop the meat into medium size chunks.  Remove as much as the white, firm flesh from the body of the lobster as well;  don’t waste these sweet morsels.In a medium bowl, gently fold the lobster together with the rest of the ingredients;  except the hot dog buns and butter.  Put the mixture into the refrigerator for 30 minutes, until chilled.  Before serving, butter the buns, and gently toast over a hot grill or a pan grill on the stove.  Fill the buns with the lobster mixture.  Serve.  Eat.

All photos styled and taken by Denise Woodward.

Eat Boutique is an online magazine + market for food enthusiasts to celebrate the best pure, local + comforting handmade foods. We call it: food that hugs you back. Looking for the perfect gift? Eat Boutique sells a handmade gift box filled with handmade sweet and savory treats. Send food that hugs you back today.

I believe we’ve gone a little overboard in the Meyer lemon category as of late. Perhaps it hasn’t phased you, but it certainly has me. Still, I can’t get enough of these darling little suckers, sweet and tart at the same time, kind of like the best people I know. And I just keep ordering them by the pound(s) from the Lemon Ladies, a small producer in California.

As I mentioned previously, I’m a lazy jam maker. I throw fruit into a pot with plenty of sugar and lemon and hope for the best, and usually get plenty of passable results, sometimes worth of topping a pretty panna cotta dessert, sometimes only worthy of a smear on a piece of toast. Either way, I prefer to take my chances and not worry too much about the intricacies of the esteemed jam making process.

There are, however, a few special recipes that cause me pause, making me rethink my messy ways. And when I got my paws on Rachel Saunders’ The Blue Chair Jam Cookbook finally, I totally fell into a bit of awe. First, she’s absolutely beautiful, like a little pixie in the kitchen whipping up a bit of magic.

And her jam recipes aren’t half bad either. They really sound delightful, packed with familiar and foreign fruit, herbs, flowers, spices and, my favorite, the occasional dose of liquor. While Rachel isn’t a big fan of plain Meyer lemon marmalade (it seems “somewhat one-dimensional” to her), I sparked it up with what I know best and splashed in some booze. The Elderflower liquor kicks the pants off any one-dimensionality and, from what I’ve heard, put a smile on my friend’s faces too.

I’ve combined a few of Rachel’s recipes into what I felt was best for this jam. Sure, it was a lot of work and hasn’t made me give up my lazy ways, but the results were delicious and something of which I’m far more proud. I also did a bunch of other cool things with my Meyer lemons, which you can see previewed in some of the above photos, and promise to tell you all about that soon.

Meyer Lemon Marmalade with Elderflower Liquor

Adapted from Rachel Saunders’ The Blue Chair Jam Cookbook

Ingredients

• 3 pounds 10 ounces seeded Meyer lemons, halved crosswise, each half cut lengthwise into quarters and sliced thinly crosswise
• 2.5 pounds white cane sugar
• 3 ounces strained freshly squeezed lemon juice (not Meyer lemon, but standard lemons)
• 3 ounces elderflower liquor

Day 1 Instructions

Place the lemon slices in a wide stainless-steel kettle and cover with 1 inch cold water. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and let rest overnight at room temperature. (Don’t skip this step as it helps to develop the fruit’s natural pectin.)

Day 2 Instructions

Place a saucer with five metal teaspoons in a flat place in your freezer for testing the jam later. Remove the plastic wrap from the lemons and bring them to a boil over high heat, then decrease the heat to medium and cook at a lively simmer, uncovered, for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the fruit is tender.

When the lemon slices have finished cooking, place them with their liquid into a larger mixing bowl with the sugar and fresh lemon juice. Stir well to combine, taste, and slowly add a little more lemon juice if necessary. You should be able to taste the lemon juice, but it should not be overpowering. Keep adding lemon juice only until you are just able to detect its tartness. Transfer the mixture to an 11- or 12-quarter copper preserving plan or a wide nonreactive pan (which is what I chose).

Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Cook at a rapid boil until the setting point is reached; this will take a minimum of 35 minutes, but may take longer depending on your individual stove and pan. Initially, the mixture will bubble gently for several minutes; then, as more moisture cooks out of it and its sugar concentration increases, it will begin foaming. Do not stir it at all during the initial bubbling; then, once it starts to foam, stir it gently every few minutes with a heatproof rubber spatula. As it gets close to being done, stir it slowly every minute or two to prevent burning, decreasing the heat a tiny bit if necessary. The marmalade is ready for testing when its color darkens slightly and its bubbles become very small.

To test the marmalade for doneness, remove it from the heat and carefully transfer a small representative half-spoonful to one of your frozen spoons. It should look shiny, with tiny bubbles throughout. Replace the spoon in the freezer for 3 to 4 minutes, then remove and carefully feel the underside of the spoon. It should be neither warm nor cold; if still warm, return it to the freezer for a moment. Tilt the spoon vertically to see whether the marmalade runs; if it does not run, and if its top layer has thickened to a jelly consistency, it is done. If it runs, cook it for another few minutes, stirring, and test again as needed. (It took me 3 spoons to get it just right.)

When the marmalade is ready, turn off the heat but do not stir. Using a stainless-steel spoon, skim off any surface foam. Stir in 1-2 ounces of the elderflower liquor. Taste carefully and add a little more liquor if necessary; the flavor should be present but subtle. (I added in a full 3 ounces of liquor.) Pour the jam into sterilized jars and process according to your manufacturer’s instructions or as Rachel Saunder’s suggests, using an oven method. More on the oven method here (under “Great Tip”).

Spring has sprung.  It was a glorious morning as I set out for the east bay to check out the Berkeley Farmer’s Market. The air was crisp and heavily scented with jasmine and cherry blossoms.  *sigh*  I love spring mornings…

I decided to head across the bridge to the other side of the bay to check out the Berkeley Farmer’s Market.  The Berkeley Farmers Market started in 1987 and is committed to supporting small-scale farmers who produce sustainable agriculture.  It is merely a block in length and has that good ole homey feeling.

The first thing I like to do when I arrive at a market is to grab a cup of coffee and walk the length of the market, once or twice, to see what is available.  I was in luck!  As soon as I walked up to the market, I could smell coffee, and not any coffee – very good coffee!  Not only could I smell the dark-roasted brew but I could see the crowd around the stall.  What a great surprise to see that Blue Bottle Coffee was available.  Blue Bottle is a local coffee based in Oakland, CA.  They take great pride in micro-roasting their beans.  Blue Bottle uses only the finest organic coffee beans, which are roasted in small batches.  Every cup is made to order using the drip method.

The nice thing about getting to the market a little early is being able to enjoy the serenity that is hanging over the market, as the vendors are setting up.   Hot coffee in hand, I strolled the market, planning my menu for the week.  It was very evident that spring is on the cusp, as there was an abundance of fresh asparagus, artichokes, baby leeks, green garlic, bitter but sweet dandelion greens, golden yellow chard,  flowering bok choy and a rainbow of spring time beets.  I love (big inhale as I typed these words) the smell of spring time beets …. musty, slightly dirty and a sweet dewy scent. It is hard to describe but I can almost taste them as I pull them to my nose.  I find it intoxicating like a big bold red wine.  Oh, how I love that!

The last of our favorite winter time veggies like watermelon radishes, carrots and butternut squash are still hanging on.  How I will miss them!  But I’m excited for more leeks, green garlic, chards, berries and the first sweet cherries, that will arrive in a couple months.

The Berkeley Farmer’s Market in only a block in length but they have a huge variety available.  Not only is there a beautiful assortment of produce but they also offer fresh honey, fresh baked breads, cookies and pastries, beautiful orchids (which are a steal at the price of $5 for a small one or $10 for a larger one), multi-colored eggs more beautiful than Easter dyed ones with yolks that are the most vibrant golden yellow I have ever seen.  There was fresh chicken, lamb, beef and seafood.   I was entertained by a charming fellow at Hog Island Oyster as he shucked fresh oysters for me – nothing like a hot cup of coffee and oysters  that are merely flavored by the sea to get you going for the day.  I ended up leaving with 2 pounds of fresh Manila clams!

I was in love with everything about this market.  The small time charm, the variety of the bounty, and the friendliest of the people. You will want to bring the entire family as this market is loaded with entertainment as well.   Your children will love listening to the music and playing in the large grassy area and playground that is right next door.

I really enjoyed the Berkeley Farmer’s Market and I can definitely see myself falling in love with it!

While I make coffee in the morning, I like to open our kitchen door to let in the warmth of the sun or the coolness of the winter rain. Today, I could smell the remaining footprints of our last winter rains mixed with the scent of springtime jasmine.

After two days of icy cold rains, we were blessed with warm weather and slivers of sunshine. I was excited. I grabbed a quick cup of coffee, kissed Lenny good-bye and headed out with camera and notepad in hand, to explore the Alemany Farmer’s Market.

This market is not terribly far from our house so I had no excuse not to visit. As I turned the corner, I caught a glimpse of the market and got very excited. There was a sea of colored tops and vendor stalls, which was a very pleasant surprise as my last market adventure was near rained out. When I found parking immediately, I knew this trip was meant to be.

As soon as I started walking from my car, the foggy air was filled with the aroma of fresh brewed coffee, a hint of spicy food and the distant sounds of steel drums. I was immediately taken back to a far away land; I was no longer in the middle of San Francisco. I was completely ready to jump in.

When I arrive at a market, I first take a walk through, to see who is there, what is available and scout out the best prices. There was no fluff, no tourists, and the prices were right. I later discovered it was the first farmer’s market in California. Started in 1943, the Alemany Market has been dubbed the “people’s market.” It has all sorts of product, but also great just-cooked food and lively entertainment.

This market supports small family farmers and it is about 50% certified organic. There is fresh produce for a variety of backgrounds like Chinese chives, bok choy and daikon, and Latin-inspired sugarcane and guavas. The final days of winter were still evident in piles of root vegetables, citrus, apples and hard squashes. But, there was a small glimmer of spring in the early season green garlic, strawberries and bright tulips.

I fell in love with a small organic farmer, Tomatero Farms. They had an abundance of everything I wanted: broccoli, beets, wild arugula, wintergreens, kale and super sweet carrots. The staff at Tomatero are young, upbeat and very personable, and promised that the hints of spring would be budding at the market in only a few short weeks. I am so excited to be cooking with their produce this week and am equally excited to learn that they dry-farm their tomatoes. Can Summer come soon enough?!

This market also had an assortment of food vendors. I love street food and this is a great place to get some amazing food. Not only were there freshly shucked oysters but also amazing tamales, wood-fired pizzas and Malaysian-style crepes.

Entertainment was around every corner. I listened to a steel drum player who took me back to the days when I use to travel to the Caribbean. I watched the old woman who was entertaining small children with her dancing cat while she played her saw. And, finally, I was taken back to a movie I loved, The Visitor, when I heard drums beaten over at Princess Aisha’s stand, lovely background music to set off her pretty Shea products and baskets.

Alemany Farmer’s Market is more than a farmer’s market. It’s a place where everyone can meet up and fill their baskets with produce and a bit of community spirit. I’ll be returning soon.

Alemany Farmers Market,100 Alemany Blvd, 101 Saturdays, 6AM-6PM

One of our foodie goals for 2010 is to have a better idea of where our food originates. We are about 85% there. In the same breathe, we’d like to make sure that we’re eating as local as possible, plus or minus those guilty pleasures (French wine and cheese, of course). In order to make this goal happen, we’re on the quest to find what we consider to be the perfect farmer’s market for our needs. What will make or break our market choice? That’s simple: variety, price point, and, over all, atmosphere.

Despite the rain we ventured out to one of the many Bay Area farmer’s markets, staying local by visiting the Noe Valley farmer’s market. The Noe Valley market is small and very family oriented, think Stroller Valley.

We were sad to find mostly an abundance of root vegetables, citrus and apples, but excited to see that Happy Boy Farms was there, as they have the best carrots and butternut squash. There was also a honey vendor, Prather Ranch (an organic meat company), and a mushroom vendor.

Despite not being able to fill our baskets with beautiful and varied produce, we still enjoyed the market and had a chance to snap some photos and splash in the puddles. We hope it was just the rain that kept away most of the usual vendors. We’ll be giving the Noe Valley Farmer’s Market another visit, since they’re literally just a couple blocks away.

Our market purchases:

• Carrots & Butternut Squash: Happy Boy Farm
• Lettuce: Happy Boy Farm
• Pomelos: Twin Girls Farm

The Girl & The Fig does many many things well. Besides charcuterie platters, cheese plates and even pumpkin cheesecake, this delightful dish is their signature salad. The photo depicts a sweet pile of arugula, pecans, goat cheese and figs mid-course. The husband and I had already devoured half of it, but it still looked so desirous and full.

Arugula is my favorite green and this batch was perfectly peppery. The pecans were toasted and the chevre was creamy and tangy. I adore pancetta, and this bit was crunchy and smokey. (Note to self: Try this pancetta recipe next week.) The figs were grilled but so concentrated, almost as if they were dried but still juicy. I loved the port vinaigrette and plan to experiment with port-based salad dressings when I get back into my own kitchen next week.

As a side note, all this wine tasting and food exploration is making me crave my own kitchen again. California has been awesome and I adore this mild, perfect weather. But I miss my kitchen and look forward to months of Fall weather food experimentation. Who’s game to be my guinea pig?

Despite the warm temperatures and bright sun out here in California, the red-colored grapevine leaves and strong breezes suggest Fall is here. And so does this luscious pumpkin cheesecake we indulged in at The Girl & The Fig a couple nights ago.

Since I don’t have the recipe, I’ll try to describe everything happening on this plate.

This dish was so much more than pumpkin and cheese. The graham cracker crust was deep and smoky with faint touches of burnt caramel. The chartreuse swirl on the plate was a delicious curry coulis, not hot but complex with suggestions of coconut and spice. And the toasted pumpkin seeds provided a lovely nutty crunch that complimented the light airy cheese pie.

The only other flavor you don’t see on this plate is the gorgeous Late Harvest Viognier that was sipped between each bite. It was full of honey and apricot, and made me ecstatic about sweet Viognier. On the rest of this trip, I’m scouting out a few to ship home, to serve alongside my own pumpkin cheesecake at Thanksgiving.

Last week, my pal Dan and I were debating the merits of truffle oil. Truffle oil, a substance that has very little actual truffle in it, has popped up on menus all over the taste spectrum, whether fancy fine dining or, as in this case, every day bar and grill food. We both agreed that we were so over truffle oil, and we wished chefs would get over it too.

A few days ago, I visited the Healdsburg Bar and Grill in Northern California for a quick burger, as we heard they made the best in the county. The locals didn’t lie; the burger was delicious. The husband and I also shared a basket full of fries that had been covered in parmasan cheese and truffle oil, actually dipped in loads of truffle oil. And, despite my complaints last week, I kept stuffing these shiny, oily potato sticks in my mouth, aching for the faux truffle flavor.

So Dan, I have to adjust my opinion. Sure, chefs over do it and toss truffle oil on just about anything these days, but it’s the consumer that’s too blame. If we want chefs to move on to the next flavor of the month, we’ll need to stop asking for the oil, stop ordering shiny fries covered in it, relegate ourselves to plain old fries.

Yes, and I’ll add that to my to do list for next month.